I loves me some of those old-school composition books. Last August, our local Fred Meyer had them on sale for 25 cents apiece for back-to-school, and K and I laid in a stock to get us well into our old age.

I’ve been noodling with ways to make them look prettier. There are tons of tutorials on the web for mixed-media treatments, or removable patchwork covers. But I wanted something a little more simple and durable – after all, my notebooks take abuse.

I don’t know why it took me so long to arrive at this dead-simple idea, but here you go.

So first, you’ll need a piece of fabric that’s roughly 1″ larger on all sides than your opened-flat composition book.

This project works best with a woven cotton that’s a little on the thicker side and tightly woven. Quilting cottons are ideal. Do take a moment and see whether the black-and-white composition book cover will show through the fabric – this can happen with light colors especially.

Next, get a sheet of fusible web that’s slightly smaller on all sides than the fabric. You’ll notice that I haven’t gone to too much trouble to cut anything perfectly straight. This tutorial was shot on a Sunday morning. There’s no need to get too exacting about anything on a Sunday morning.

Place the fabric on an ironing board wrong side up. Place the fusible web over the fabric, with the web side facing down.

Your iron should be on high heat with no steam (No steam is really important here.) Pass the hot iron over the paper backing of the fusible web. Keep the iron moving, and make sure you iron over all of the paper – especially out to the edges.

When you’re done ironing, let the fabric and paper cool for a moment.

Gently peel away the paper. See the shiny glue fused to the back of the fabric?

You should end up with a nice, even coat of glue fused to the back of your fabric. If you end up with bare spots, try placing the backing over the fabric again in the same position, and iron over the bare spots again to transfer the glue from the paper to the fabric.

Now, place the fabric on your ironing board with the glue side facing up. Place your composition book over the fabric, like this. Then, close the book, folding the fabric over it.

Take a moment to adjust the placement of the fabric as needed. This is why we made the fabric bigger than the book – so we’d have some leeway for adjustments.

Make sure the fabric is smoothly spread over the cover of the book. Then, iron the fabric to bond it to the cover. Again, keep the iron moving and make sure you iron along all the edges of the cover.

Flip the book over and re-smooth the fabric. Iron the fabric to the back cover.

Lastly, run the iron along the spine a few times. Then let everything cool for a moment.

Next, trim the fabric along the edges of the book cover. I like to use my rotary cutter for this, but you can also cut along the edges with some scissors.

(Don’t you love all these conversion tables and things on the inside covers of composition books?)

I prefer to use scissors to trim the fabric along the rounded corners.

As a last step, iron along all the edges and corners of the cover one more time, to make sure that fabric is good and fused there.

…And it’s done! Don’t you love this 70’s fabric? I’m only going to use this notebook to write about my dates with Keith Partridge.

Of course, since you’re playing with fusible web, you could also fuse a solid fabric to the cover and then fuse some cut-outs from other fabrics over that. There are a million and one possibilities.

OOh -and since we’re here, I’ll show you another idea that didn’t pan out so well. I thought it would be cool to cover a notebook with duct tape. Since I spend a lot of time at marshy bus stops, it seemed like a nice waterproof option. But, I overlapped the strips of tape, and I don’t love the look of that after all.

(I cut those flower shapes out of more duct tape with an Xacto knife. As you might imagine, it ended up being decidedly not fun.)

Anyway. Happy New Week, everyone!

©2010 CraftyPod. All Rights Reserved.

Evaluating an Opportunity (when you aren’t getting paid) from Diane Gilleland on Vimeo.

If you’re a craft blogger (or really, any kind of blogger), chances are good that sooner or later, someone will contact you and ask you to contribute something to their website. Sometimes, it’s a corporate website looking for free content, and sometimes, it’s another blogger looking for a guest post.

Some of these opportunities are great – in exchange for your time in producing content, you’ll get more exposure, or reach a new audience. But other opportunities… not so much.

How do you tell which is which? This video offers some simple tricks. Hope you find it useful!

Resources mentioned in this video:

• Google Reader

• Domain Tools/WHOIS Lookup

• Alexa.com

• Compete.com

©2010 CraftyPod. All Rights Reserved.

Ooh! I just noticed that this project I did for The Oregonian has just posted to their website.

Follow this link to the directions for making these dead-simple hanging paper hearts for V-Day. You can use up scraps of decorative paper, or pull pages from old magazines. (The Christmas issue of Martha Stewart Living served me well here.)

Enjoy!

©2010 CraftyPod. All Rights Reserved.

How to Make a Valentine’s Day Gift Topper from Diane Gilleland on Vimeo.

I’ve been hemming and hawing over whether to post this or not. I’ve been hiking the video learning curve lately, and hope to produce a nice number of video how-to’s this year.

But, Man! Video is challenging! (Compelling, but challenging.)

So… I finally decided to share this one, as a way to illustrate one of my favorite ideas: The Power of the 1.0.

Before we can do anything well, we have to pass through a beginner stage. We have to make mistakes and learn from them. And we have to let these rough-finish efforts out into the world, so we can move on to the more-confident work ahead.

I could spend all day telling you about the ways I wish this video were better. But making it, I learned a ton of things that will make the next one better. So instead, I’ll just share my little 1.0 with you, and send you lots of love for your own 1.0’s.

(Oh – the project uses plastic canvas, so that’s something.)

©2010 CraftyPod. All Rights Reserved.

I should say: I’m not much for Valentine’s Day itself, but the crafts are always pretty. I was playing around with felt recently and came up with this simple, non-frilly sachet. Easy to whip up if you need little gifties.

You might have everything you need to make these in your stash: two 6″ squares of woven fabric, and some felt scraps. I made mine with seven colors of felt, but the design would also be cool if all the layers were the same color.

You’ll also want a water-soluble marker and some good fabric scissors. And a heart template – I made mine by folding some card stock and cutting a heart freehand. You could also trace around a cookie cutter.

So first, you’ll want to cut some hearts out of your felt. And these hearts need to be graduated in size, so the hearts get a little smaller with each layer. I figured out a nice, lazy way to do this.

Start by tracing the full-size heart onto the first color of felt, and cutting it out. This will be the bottom-most heart on the finished sachet.

Then, you can fold your template in half again and cut away about 1/8″. You can do this freehand – the hearts don’t have to be perfectly-sized.

Once you’ve shaved this bit away, open the template back up and trace it on the second color of felt. Cut that one out.

…And then repeat these two steps with the rest of the felt colors. Each heart will be slightly smaller than the one before it.

Next, take the smallest heart – this is the one that will be on top of the stack in the finished sachet. Use a ruler and a water-soluble marker to draw a line down the center. You’ll use this line as a stitching guide in a moment.

Stack all the hearts up on one of the fabric squares. Arrange them so they’re reasonably centered on top of each other, but don’t worry too much about it.

Center the stack of hearts on the fabric.

Take this to your sewing machine, and place all these layers under the presser foot. (You might need to press the felt down with your fingers to help it fit.)

Before you begin stitching, take a moment to make sure your hearts are still stacked in a fairly centered stack, and that they’re centered on the fabric square.

Sew your way down the center of the heart, following that line you drew earlier. Be sure to backstitch a couple times at the start and end of the seam.

Next, pin the two fabric squares together, with right sides together and the hearts to the inside.

Head back to the sewing machine and sew around all four sides, using a 4/8″ seam allowance. Leave a nice, big opening in one side, because you’ll need a lot of room to turn those hearts to the outside! Notice how I sewed just enough around those two bottom corners so they’d be nice and sharp, but I left most of that side open? That’s the way.

Clip off the four corners.

Turn the sachet right-side out. Poke a chopstick into the corners, so they’re nice and sharp. And then turn the raw edges to the inside and press them.

Fill your sachet with something nice, like dried lavender, dried rose buds, or cedar shavings. Don’t fill it too full! The sachet should lay pretty flat even when stuffed.

With the sachet filled, slip stitch the opening closed.

If you like, you can sew a contrasting zig zag around the edges of the sachet. Try to press the filling material out of the needle’s way as you sew.

(You could also embroider a design around the edges.)

And finally, use a moistened cotton swab or washcloth to remove that stitching line.

Give the hearts a little “fluffing.” You might also want to trim their edges a bit here and there, if they need it.

And that’s that! Hope you like!

©2010 CraftyPod. All Rights Reserved.

Yay, I was super excited to see that my new project is up on CRAFT this morning!

I designed these Project Keepers as a way to neatly store all my projects-in-progress. They’re a super simple construction – a little like an envelope pillow, so small items can’t fall out. And they come with a hangtag so I can label each project.

Best of all, you can make them from oilcloth, or you can find a vinyl tablecloth (backed with flannel or not) at your local thrift store.

Here’s a shot of the opening, and of one of my longest-standing WIPs. Joan Hawley of Lazy Girl Designs was kind enough to send me this pattern for her Gracie Handbag, along with one of her Bag-E-Bottom stabilizers. I really want this bag! I found awesome fabric!

…And (gulp) a year and a half later, I’m still trying to find time to sew it. Ack.

Wait. Forget I said all that. Go look at the Project Keeper tutorial!

And, check out this pretty idea from Modern June, where oilcloth takes a similar shape as gift wrap!

©2010 CraftyPod. All Rights Reserved.

Google Reader Tricks for Craft Bloggers from Diane Gilleland on Vimeo.

So, lately I’ve been talking to a lot of bloggers, and discovering that many of them don’t know about all the cool things Google Reader can do to help you organize all your crafty blog reading.

I freaking love this tool, so I made this little screen-capture video to show you several tricks. It’s like a Masters degree in Google Reader! I hope you find it useful.

Happy Weekend, everyone!

©2010 CraftyPod. All Rights Reserved.

There are many reasons to love CRAFT, but one of my biggest is that they let me do stuff like this. Check out my tutorial over there for this crafty storage box.

…Why yes, it is made of plastic canvas! But I added some fabric inserts to change up the look.

Also, days and days of cold, grey weather make me craft in the brightest colors I can find.

©2010 CraftyPod. All Rights Reserved.

Let me just interrupt my week of Vintage Christmas Awesome to show you a new tutorial I have up on CRAFT right now.

These ornaments are made from a combination of Friendly Felt and regular felt. They’re easy to construct – a little sewing, a little gluing. Click over here for the how-to!

©2010 CraftyPod. All Rights Reserved.

So, yesterday, we learned to make a notepad from a cardboard box. Today, let’s fancy up the cover a little by adding some weaving.

You can start weaving your cover right after this step in the notepad-making process…

Now, most weaving project begin with a little measuring and figuring. I’ll try to keep this part as loose as possible. The nice thing about this little weaving is, it’s not an exact science at all. There’s lots of room for flubs and cheats of all kinds, as you’ll see.

Anyway. On the inside of your cover, measure and mark a rectangle in the center. Make it about 1/2″ inside the edges of the cover on all sides.

Next. divide this rectangle into an odd number of strips, and mark a series of parallel lines, as you see here.

These strips don’t have to be equal, as you can see from my sample. In fact, I think the weaving is more interesting if they’re a little unequal.

Use a metal ruler and a craft knife to cut along these lines. Be careful not to cut outside the borders of that rectangle!

…So when you’re done, you’ll have these nice, parallel slits in your cover. These will be the warps of your weaving.

Now it’s time to make some weft for your weaving. Take another piece of cardboard and cut a new rectangle. It should have these two qualities:

1. It should be the same width as your cover.
2. It should be about 1/2″ shorter than the length of those slits you just cut.

Why make it shorter? Well, the thickness of the cardboard will take up a lot of space in your weaving, as we’ll see in a moment.

Also, I should point out that in my photo here, I’ve actually made the Awake Tea cardboard a little too long – see how it’s only about 1/4″ shorter than my rectangle? That won’t work. Don’t be like me.

Make yours at least 1/2″ shorter. This will all make more sense in a minute, I promise.

Next, cut your weft piece into an odd number of strips. They don’t have to be the same width – in fact, I like ‘em a little uneven.

Enough talk! Let’s weave! Begin by sliding the first strip of weft under and over the warps, as shown here.

Slide that weft down to the bottom of the cover, like this. See how the ends of this weft are hidden under the cover?

Weave in a second weft, this time weaving opposite to your first weft. The ends of this weft are sitting on top of the cover.

Slide this weft down as close to the first one as you can get it. Use a gentle pressure to pack them together.

Remember all that babbling I was doing a minute ago about the thickness of the cardboard taking up space? Here’s where that comes into play. It’s possible that, as you’re weaving, you may need to shave a tiny bit off your wefts so they’ll all fit into the weaving. This is totally okay – nobody will ever know.

Keep sliding all the wefts downward as you weave, pressing them as close together as you can.

When you’ve woven in all those strips, glue the ends down with a little tacky glue. Do the same thing on the back side of the cover. And then place it under something heavy for about 10 minutes while the glue cures.

There are lots of design possibilities with this technique. Here’s a version I made where I cut both the warps and wefts into wide and narrow widths. And I used the chipboard side of the cardboard, and added a coat of Shimmer Mod Podge to give it a distressed-yet-gleamy look.

…Incidentally, you could also incorporate my Handwoven Greeting Card technique here, to make a fiber-covered notepad.

©2010 CraftyPod. All Rights Reserved.

I kid you not: I first made this project, from start to finish, in a dream. (Which was pretty great – I mean, it’s so hard to find crafting-time during my waking hours. Wish I could manage to craft in my sleep more often.)

Anyway. I like these simple notepads – they’re a fun way to re-purpose cardboard into something useful.

In my dream, I used a Kleenex box, so I’ll start with one here, too. But you can really use any chipboard box with interesting graphics.

So, cut your box apart into panels. You an really make these notepads in any shape and size your particular box will accommodate. Since this Kleenex box has that big plastic window in the top, I’m opting to use the side here, which will yield a long, narrow notepad.

Turn the chipboard over to the back. Get a ruler and a pencil, and draw two parallel lines, about 3/8″ apart, in the center.

…Then, score these lines with a bone folder. (Jolly useful, those bone-folders.)

Fold the chipboard along those score lines, and now you have a cover for your notepad. So far, so good!

Now, you’ll need to cut some paper for inside pages. You can use fresh sheets, or sheets from your recycle bin, or magazine pages, or any other interesting paper you like. You’ll need to cut a series of long strips, measuring about 1/8″ smaller on all sides than your cover piece.

So, by way of example, my cover piece measures 3″ wide and 8 1/2″ long. I cut my paper strips about 2 3/4″ wide and 8 1/4″ long. But if you hate measuring, don’t! Just make the paper a little smaller than the chipboard, and all will be well.

Separate the paper into equal bundles. I cut up five sheets of paper here, so I have three bundles of five pieces each. (But you can totally vary this to suit your fancy.)

Fold each bundle in half crosswise. Unfold it, and staple it once along that fold line.

Ooh! A Lazy Bookbinder’s Trick: place the staple in a different spot on each bundle. That way, you can pack the bundles together more tightly when you bind them into the cover.

(This might be a good time to add: you could also make these notepads with fancier stitched bookbinding methods, like this or this.)

Now, take your cover, and apply some strong, flexible glue, like E6000 or Amazing Goop, inside the spine.

Press those paper bundles together, and set them into the glue.

Fold the cover closed, making sure all those bundles are pressed firmly into that spine-glue. Then, place a weight on the pad and leave it to dry for several hours or overnight.

(Yup, Amy, that is what you think it is.) :-)

When the binding is dry, then you’ll need a little strip of chipboard. Mine measures about 3/4″ x 3″ Score this piece twice in the center, like you did the cover. The scores should be about 3/8″ apart, same as your cover.

You’ll also need a nice big button – 1″ or larger.

Glue one side of the strip to the back of the cover – Tacky Glue is fine for this.

Then, stick some velcro to the strip and the cover, as shown here. I’m using those self-adhesive velcro dots, and I trimmed them down a little to fit. You can also use regular velcro, and glue it down.

Lastly, glue your button in place on top of that closure strip. Let everything dry completely before you try opening the cover.

These are easy to make, and addictive! There are a million creative possibilities here – you can use old album covers, or food boxes, or toy packaging, and on and on. The world is filled with interesting cardboard, my friends.

…I should say, too, that in my dream, I was able to open and close this notepad with my mind. Sadly, I have not been able to figure out how to make this part of the project work.

Also in the dream, I made that woven cover you see in the background. But I’ll show you how to do that part tomorrow.

©2010 CraftyPod. All Rights Reserved.

Ooh! I’ve had a couple of felt-y projects published over at CRAFT, and wanted to share.

They’re in the midst of a Super Crafty Kidz month – lots of projects for kids aged 8 and up.

Up top there is a felt photo frame you can clip to a backpack. Starring Cedric Diggory. (Just kidding.) The how-to is over here.

And this Flowery Felt Ponytail Holder is made with two long strips of felt, rolled up. (Follow that link for the how-to.)

The sparkly stamens came from The Knittn’ Kitten. Loves me some sparkly stamens.

©2010 CraftyPod. All Rights Reserved.

Yup. I’m still messing around with fabric stiffener. Here’s the latest result – a cool little dimensional fabric flower brooch. Suitable for crocheted hats, handbags, lapels, and scarves!

…And they’re pretty easy to make.

If you like, you can download my template for the flower shapes here. Or you can design your own.

Then, use my templates or yours to cut flowers from three different fabrics.

Cut another set of three, so you can place them back to back. If you’re using my templates, keep in mind that I made them a little off-center and casual. So you’ll want to flip them over when you cut out the second set of flowers, so they match up.

Now, we need some forms. We’ll be draping the moist fabric over these, so they dry in a more flowerlike shape. I’m using a measuring cup and two plastic containers. Raid your kitchen for bowls and mugs and things you can invert, and see what has the best size and shape.

You’ll need to cover these forms with plastic wrap, so the fabric stiffener won’t stick to them.

…And you may want to tape the edges of the plastic wrap down with some masking tape. You don’t have to get the plastic wrap perfectly smooth, but it should be mostly smooth.

So, to stiffen, place the first fabric flower over the form, face down. (Was that a world record for most occurrences of the letter “F” in a sentence?)

Pour a little fabric stiffener into a dish. Use your fingers to spread a light coat over the fabric, making sure you cover every bit of it.

Then, place the second fabric flower on top of the first, face up, matching the edges as best you can.

And lastly, use your fingers again to spread another light coat of stiffener all over.

This might seem a little complicated – why don’t you just dip the pieces into the stiffener and be done with it?

Well, after much testing, this method proved to stiffen the fabric nicely and add just a little sheen. It’s important not to get too much stiffener on the fabric, as it tends to gum up when it dries.

I have a veritable wasteland of failed prototypes over here, if you’d ever like to discuss alternate methods and why they don’t work as well. I could go on for days. :-)

Anyway. Leave your flowers to dry overnight. In the morning, carefully peel them away from the plastic.

Now for the fun part: use a round (not ridged) pencil to give the tips of the petals a nice curl.

Then you can glue the flowers together…

…And add a nice button center.

Glue a pin back to the back, and glue a little square of fabric over it, like this.

And you’re all set! These would look nice and elegant made from all the same fabric. And you could easily to a beaded center instead of a button.

Happy Flower-Making!

©2010 CraftyPod. All Rights Reserved.

I’m still noodling with buttons and wire over here… and this is the latest result. I like how the design can take on a “shooting star” effect, or resemble a little flower vase.

This isn’t a complicated project – please don’t let the number of photos here fool you! I was just trying to be thorough.

You’ll need some 24 gauge craft wire and some assorted buttons. One of them should be a large shank button. The others should be smaller sew-through buttons. Oh – and, wire cutters and needle-nose pliers are useful.

So, begin with one of the sew-through buttons. Poke the end of the wire up through one of the holes in the button, from back to front. Leave the wire attached to the spool for now.

Pull the button along until you have about 8″ of wire sticking up through it. Then, take the end of the wire and poke it back down through the opposite hole.

Pull this little wire “stitch” as snug as you can.

Next, take the end of the wire and poke it back up through the next hole, as shown. Pull the wire through snugly, leaving another little “stitch” on the back of the button.

Poke that wire back down through the last hole in the button, creating another “stitch” on the front, as shown. Pull this stitch as snug as you can.

Now, place the two strands of wire coming from the back of the button side by side, as shown.

…And then gently twist the wires together. Try to keep the part of the wire that’s stitched through the button really snug at this stage – if it gets loose, your button will kind of flop around on its wire stem.

There are worse fates, but still…

If things have gotten a little loosey-goosey, you can often correct it by mashing the wire a bit with your pliers.

You can now cut the wire away from its spool. Cut the strand so it’s about 30″ in length. And then, feed the next button onto the end you just cut.

Pull this button along until it’s placed where you’ll want it in the finished piece. Then, repeat the wiring process to stitch this button into place and twist up a stem.

When you’ve finished the second button, you’ll have something that looks like this, with a small space between the two stems.

Incidentally, if you want to create a little “leaf” in your stem, it’s really easy. Just twist to the place where you want that leaf to be…

…And then make a little loop in one of the wires, like this.

Twist that little loop once or twice, and then continue twisting the stem.

Add as many button-stems as you like. When you’re done adding buttons, you can cut away any excess wire, leaving two tails of about 4″ , as shown.

Take a moment to gather the button stems closer together, or fan them out, or bend them a little – whatever you want them to do.

Pass the two ends of the wire through the button shank.

Wrap the ends of the wire around the button shank a few times, and then cut away any excess.

Then, use a nice, strong glue, like E6000 or Amazing GOOP, to glue a felt circle over the back of the button.

A little note on shanks, by the way: my blue button has a fairly shallow shank, which doesn’t stick up from the back of the button too much, so I was able to glue the felt right over it. That red button, on the other hand, as a much deeper shank, so I cut a tiny slit in the felt so it would lay flatter.

…And now you can glue on a pin back. Your brooch might be a little top-heavy, especially if it has buttons sticking out from the top, so make sure you place your pin back near the top of the brooch to help balance it.

I hope you like! I could totally see these as little holiday gifty-things.

…Too early to use the “H” word?

©2010 CraftyPod. All Rights Reserved.

When Mom and I did Felt Day last week, I dug out a bunch of my precious hoarded felted sweater scraps. I really wanted to use them somehow. Then, I got to thinking: “What if I made yo-yos?”

…Aaaaaaaand this project was the result. Hope you like!

I’m using pieces of several lightweight wool sweaters here. If you’ve never felted wool in your washing machine, you can learn to do that here. Make sure the sweaters you use still have some drape to them after felting – some shrink up into something pretty stiff, and that won’t make nice yo-yos.

So first, you’ll need to cut yourself a bunch of circles. You can trace around anything that’s the right size. I’m using a Sharpie here (and cutting inside the line it makes), but you can also trace with a water-soluble fabric marker.

Did you see this tutorial on how to mark and cut felt circles, by the way?

You’ll need 7 large circles for this design. And you’ll also need 7 smaller ones, to fit in the centers of your yo-yos, like this. My circles measure 4 1/2″ and 2 1/4″.

Tack the small circles to the centers of the large ones with some fabric glue. (Fabri-Tac is a good one, or any glue that can stand up to washing.) As you can see, you don’t need a lot of glue here – we’re just lightly attaching the pieces so they won’t move around.

Incidentally, if your sweaters happen to have a “right” side and a “wrong side,” then glue this circle to the wrong side.

Next, thread up a needle with about 24″ of doubled thread, and tie a secure knot in the end. Sew a little running stitch about 1/8″ away from the edge of the circle. Try to keep your stitches fairly even.

When you’ve stitched your way around the circle, pull the thread to gather it up. Adjust the gathers so they’re even.

(This is a good time to mention that, when you make a yo-yo from woven fabric, you turn under a little hem along the edge as you stitch. We’re not doing this with the sweater felt because that would create too much bulk at the center of our yo-yos.)

Take a couple tack stitches across the folds to lock your gathers in place, and then knot the thread. If you’re using matching thread, by the way, this will be invisible.

Make all your yo-yos, and then arrange them as you like. Keep in mind that the yo-yos need to be fairly close together in order to provide protection from a hot pot or dish.

If you wanted to arrange your yo-yos in a square, for example, I suggest backing them with some thick felt to help fill in the spaces between.

Time now to join the yo-yos! I’m using single thread here. Tie a good knot in the end, and let’s hide that knot inside a yo-yo.

Take the center yo-yo, and pass the needle through the center and out one side, as shown. Pull the thread so the knot rests inside.

Now, put two yo-yos back to back, and sew them together with a tiny whipstitch. You only need to sew about a 3/4″ seam here – you want these yo-yos to keep their circular shape, so they only need a small point of contact.

I like to hide the end of this seam inside a yo-yo, too. After I knot the thread, I pass the needle back into the side of the yo-yo and come out at the center. Then I clip my thread so the end hides inside there.

You can also work these little seams at the back of the trivet, if that’s easier. Sometimes, with too many yo-yos attached nearby, it can get challenging to hold them back to back.

And that’s all there is to it! This little guy is very thick, and stands up to heat very well. I recommend hand-washing it, and letting it air-dry on a towel.

Enjoy!

©2010 CraftyPod. All Rights Reserved.